Ourwalkabout.nl is a blog about the world trip Michiel de Wit and Judica Wondergem are making in 2010.


21 ° 3 'N, 105 ° 50' E
March 24, 2010, 1:27

Lovely Nanning, welcome to Vietnam

8. The ancient heart of Hanoi consists of these noisy, bustling streets

Yesterday was a strange day, after we had bought tickets for the train we had nothing to do but to walk around a bit. I must confess, Nanning has my heart beat faster in China. As written it felt a bit like Italy, the atmosphere, the people and the temperature. We enjoy all shops along rondgekuierd.

After a long road we arrived at a park, it's funny, they are not Europeans used to have quite a lot because we were looked at. The park swarming with people and you would not say it was a by-deweekse day. There were playing cards, Chinese chess playing, cigarette run, but many gespuugt particularly enjoyed. In a sort of shopping, we ate delicious, both 2.40 for a meal with rice. There was someone special who met spoke English and they wanted us so eager to please. The people are just friendly and helpful. Especially when Michael knocked over his Coke was the manager even help around the table quickly clean up and of course a new cola. Service with a smile.

We also walked into my eyes even more 'real' Chinese streets with all shops, food, electronics. Francis and Aman, dress in your size, and so much choice. It was really great and we have therefore enjoyed to the fullest. At one point we were in the small streets completely lost. Is back and just walked in the park to sit.
There was music played and people were all the ballroom dancing. It was fun to see how they dance and I'm able to convince Michael to dance to a car (chachacha on hiking boots, not recommended). I thought it was all great but if Europeans do not you stay unnoticed, and after the song was a whole circle around us applauded. When we sat down again, Michiel many compliments, it's funny that the compliments given to me. He has done well with me they were saying. Very funny just what Michael was embarrassed.

Back to the hotel, pack up and drive amar scout, it all went smoothly, only Michael had his coat a little lost (and found again) and over time we sat in the train. Quad Coupe with its two, the train was very empty.

Tonight we had to please note the train twice, first bagagecontroloe and passport control in China, then (after half an hour nap) looks for a control in Vietnam at Dong Dang. All luggage had them every time. The drive was beautiful, but not have the energy to take pictures. The rest slept little.

At 5 am local time we arrived with no money and so very early. We are only going to run and found out that even in the suburbs are much pin machines. Only they do not all really. Only the seventh cash machine was working and then we could take a taxi. We are now in the hotel to wait until we can check, but there is already a delicious breakfast is served and we will not relax.


22 ° 49 'N, 108 ° 22' E
23 March 2010, 6:05

Pittaya, sweat and cards in Nanning

mini kitchen

It's now about 13:00, we are just past the local fruit markets have fallen and many things we do not know gekochtdie. Tonight we arrived around 2:00, the train was delayed. Luckily we found a hotel next to the station which is about lying, so it was easy to find. We have booked, yes ... but the room we received was something more luxurious than what we booked. Lucky because we have the price is just on paper, so if they fuss it's not our fault.

The room is luxuriously ... the most luxurious room yet. 1.20 we have two beds, a couch, a desk with computer table with a mirror, a mini-kitchenette, Arico, TV and bathroom. In short, we bathe in luxury.

The luck is that we have cable internet, after all the internet stuff in Beijing (so far biggest source of frustration for the trip) is wonderful just to posten.Vannacht arrival in the Netherlands was a normal time so we still have to call once again. We hear that many people follow us, but just a voice but is also fine.

The main goal today was to get tickets for the train to Hanoi tonight. Google trans later we had the phrase "we want two tickets for the train to Hanoi tonight," translated and put on the BeBook. When we walked out the hotel this morning was the heat and humidity as a blanket over us. With all the fruit stalls and shops, this is the China that I envisioned, hot, sweaty but very lively. Funny, you really get a holiday feeling. Yesterday we heard da thet in the Netherlands 'finally' a bit of nice weather. We are within 3 weeks from 2 to -24 and back to 25. Unbelievable and a little bizarre. The new jeans are already too hot to wear and we come to the painful conclusion that we really do not have enough 'light' and airy clothing with us.

Back to the tickets. She understood exactly what we meant by Bebook and apart vand I ate my passport in the hotel had left went smoothly. We have calculated that the tickets are now about 210 euro cost for 2 people (from Beijing to Hanoi) while if we had taken the more direct train around 550 would be. Still good saves and that makes us better in the room of the luxury to enjoy.

Michael has just one fruit decomposes, no idea how we should eat, he describes it as an aqueous kiwi. Google tells us that it is a Pittaya (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitaya) ... hmm, delicious fruit breakfast!


39 ° 54 'N, 116 ° 19' E
22 March 2010, 12:07

The largest train station in Asia

Minor trauma last night. Large building. Very large building. Last night at 6:46 p.m. left our train from Nanning to Beijing West (south China). We had no idea that Beijing West would be greater than the central station. In fact, we did not think at all of Asia's largest train station trap. It was an impressive experience. Armed only with a departure time and train number (T189) we find in the immense departure. It felt more like an airport than a train station, to be honest.

Anyway, we found a large screen. Four columns of train numbers and times gave the state of affairs for the next few hours again. Although we were on time, our train was already in the first column. Apart from 'T189' and '18: 46 'we recognized among all the Chinese symbols nothing more than a '9'. No idea where to hit. Platform, we thought? But the station was no indication of platforms to see only 'waiting rooms'. Up to 9 waiting room then.

Waiting Room 9 did not mean for a departure at Schiphol. 8 rows of seats and loads of people, all packed as if they have long wanted to travel. Further along the walls, stalls selling food and drinks. Except for a men's and ladies room we found to our vberbazing also a 'boiler room' where people could prepare noodles. We closed dutifully but in what looked like a row for train T189. For, thank God, our train was on a number of the four information boards in the hall mentioned.

After waiting half an hour we were surprised by males in red. Hoping to become wiser, we showed them our tickets. Immediately they enthusiastically gestured us to walk. My bag, after a few grunting noises of surprise about the weight on the shoulder of one of the males helped. At the entrance of the hall were the bags placed on a cart and raced to a desk. We ran our luggage behind to tense: what do they do? At the reception we received two "tokens" as you would get even with a wardrobe, in exchange for 10 yuan. No idea what the plan was continued, we walked - fearful that our bags with clothes and food in a baggage car would disappear - back to the male.

What happened was really amazing, we shot somewhere a door and thus end up in a long gallery above the tracks. Many traces. The red man was easy to get to the platform of our train and stopped the cart at the top of the long staircase. We had to give back the tokens. I was looking for a lift or a sign that our bags were hoisted back on our backs, when the male (only 70 pounds) weight trolley along a slope to the narrow stairs slipped. He had all his weight into the throw and employ approximately 45 degrees lean back to the cart to restrain. It seemed impossible.

One piece arrived raced down we go to our car, where we - after all the commotion finally assured - boarded the train. Our 4-person compartment was empty. Only a few hours later (when we were already under the covers) were added at two Chinese. The older of the two (Niu) spoke a few words of English and gave us most of the day occupied. He showed me Chinese wine tasting (wine nothing, just spirits!) And we tried a few simple things to explain, including the fact that our train was delayed two hours apparently, sometime tonight. The arrival of the train, according to the timetable 11:30 at night, but this is now somewhere in the middle of the night. This is a short night ...


37 ° 4 'N, 114 ° 30' E
21 March 2010, 14:00

Lale Chinese

We are now almost a week in China and that other people are falling for it. Here are a few striking units (for us) on Chinese and Beijing.

  • I thought all Chinese were very small, but although the average length may not be high but they are still longer than me.
  • The table manners of Chinese are different. Chinese can no longer cope better with chopsticks than I'll ever learn (though it was quite good), but just imagine a fry noodles or spaghetti with a slippery sauce to eat with chopsticks. That will not do. Today we had something similar and I looked around me to see how the others did. It's simple, you take a hunk of noodles and puts it in your mouth (which is hovering just above your plate) and then you bite the noodles whether you engulfed them inside. While eating in restaurants or food courts we have noticed that they like the silence of eating break with delicious tasting sounds. I have not yet established, in fact, Michael and I could not agree even if we want. Somewhere something picked up from the education.
  • The toilet is used more as in France, with those toilets that are in the ground and stands over you (modern version of the Mongolian toilet). That's all logical and good, but if you join a large department store or similar to toilet are you still just be surprised if the toilets have no doors in its entirety. You could just watch for everyone, not really my thing. Oh and another thing they do not flush the toilet paper (jakkie yuck!)
  • The Chinese are really fond of children, as a baby carriage passes and people change when your children are older they grab them so to play. Like all children I completely endearing. However, I noticed that the clothes of the little kids (say up to 4 years or so) sometimes different. The kids have a kind of pants with a hole in the crotch, normally you do not see them unless you put your neck on such and ass hanging down. Then there legs off. I think it's very practical, easy to change and if a child should only have to sit on the haunches. So I've seen a lot of baby bottoms.
  • Where I am in Moscow / Russia and Mongolia in particular comments made about the shoes and apparel for women, it is completely different. Of course, not everyone but cute dress is totally hip. Bears on your gloves, ribbons in your hair, your shoes, kittens on your backpack it does not matter if it's cute in a childish manner is worn by women. I found it difficult to estimate the age, but this way I feel that half vavnde population 12-15 years old.
  • The subway system in Beijing was also well organized so delicious. There was at each stop in English where we were told and we could therefore approve the road. Hang LCD screens in the subway and at all stations, all loops / handles were provided with advertising and the most striking: Some sections were also in the subway tunnel advertising outside / on the tunnel wall. We do not know whether it was projected that there was some meebewoog a screen on the wall, but I've never seen anything like awfully hip!
  • As one of the last actions today I come loose in a candy store. Candy usually indicates something of the culture away and I thought it was exciting. We could not read and have just random stuff thrown in a bag. Most things we bought, we are now back. are candied or dried fruits. There is really almost no chocolate or something to find. It is explained why the kids are not as overweight and is super nice.
  • Michael noticed that they have sort of public sports playgrounds. Today we walked along by chance as a playground and there are over (or simple) versions of many fitness equipment. A kind of treadmill (NLse the elliptical without arms) for abdominal exercises, arm muscles, etc. Thanks so good and accessible to everyone.
  • Chinese are fond of tokens, receipts, etc. In some shops you get something you want to buy, you get a first receipt of an employee, which voucher you count it off and stamped with the stamped ticket you going back to the employee and receive your purchase. It is of course very accurate but sometimes a bit far. Station just someone helped us with our bags. It was officially and we had 10 yuan (about 1 Euro) for payment, then we both got a plastic plate with nummertje. Not that our bag was noticed, but something good, then we walked with him anyway, and five minutes later we could return the thing again. Here he looked even checking into the thing. Actually completely useless, you might say.
  • Last but not least, the Chinese we met not always take it with the truth. We were not retrieved because the car was not allowed to drive on that day (then we got an email that another employee had forgotten to pass). In the shops where you can stuff it is worse, but there it is also part of the game. Thus, the original type numbers suddenly "prices and you almost believe that they do not buy them if you starve.

There are probably dozens of other things we have noticed, but just do not come up. Chinese are a friendly people, they are not afraid to touch you and want to help. I believe they are so funny here and there and took us have laughed heartily. Despite the fun, it's still not my country but I certainly enjoyed it.


39 ° 55 'N, 116 ° 24' E
21 March 2010, 9:19

Off the radar to Nanning

8. Is not it pretty

A warning to our loyal followers. Tonight we get on the train to Nanning, southern China. The train tomorrow, at around 11 hours. Until then, no updates. Yesterday and today we have a little rondgelummeld, so also there is not much to talk about.

Well yesterday I just jumped on the bike. The wind blew sharply. There were a lot of sand in the wind. The woman who arranged the bike looked at me strangely, "Are you sure You want to rent a bike? There is a lot of wind! "I explained that I, as a Dutchman, a little wind is not afraid.

It was a windy bike ride, but worth it. In three hours I'm up and down to the Olympic Park cycle. Have some photographs of the bird's nest made and I cycled back. Nothing exciting, but a fun way to another town to do otherwise. Judica had too much pain to walk our walls, so that has hung around for a day.

Well dear people: soon! And for anyone who has left a message: we have read and found it very nice to hear something from home. Unfortunately, the Internet here in the hotel too slow to really make sense to write something back. Also, Skype is not in it. Little bags, but alas. As an indication, the line put the story on the wall took me nearly two hours. Well, until about four days, then from Hanoi!


40 ° 39 'N, 117 ° 25' E
March 19, 2010, 14:50

A walk over rocks and fog

6. Gaanderweg but the weather improved

The Great Wall of China was built centuries ago. Initially in small pieces. Each king built a wall around his own empire from barbarians to protect. Only when all these countries had become a great emperor, there was the possibility to build the walls together. The story goes that the wall, despite every effort, never really worked. The weak link in the chain of rock-hard rocks were because the gates, especially the gatekeepers. They were apparently easy to buy by barbarians and they offered all of the wall blood and tears aside, for next to nothing access to the empire.

Today we walked to the wall, between Simatai and Jinshanling, a walk of about 10 km. Very early, on June 10 to be precise, we were picked up by a coach and drove towards Jinshanling. About 10 hours we arrived. With a group of about 30 people started the walk. The cable car up, that we should have saved quite a climb, it was not operational. And to make matters worse, the expected sunny weather, 18 degrees hot, also failed to materialize. Instead there was a very thick fog around the wall.

The first half hour of the trip were quite abandoned. Contrary to the pictures in brochures suggest, finds the wall for the most part in an extremely poor condition. Much erosion has occurred and farmers also have a lot of stones and earth for their own purpose. So it was blown clamber. Many pieces were missing tilt, paving and steps. We looked our way through fog and dust. Too bad, we enjoyed not really.

Not until the afternoon we arrived near Simatai and started again as both the wall visibly improving. The climb was again climbing and even walking. The ride was also more downhill and through the fog slowly cleared we finally got a picture of this wonderful place. Behind us we saw the wall of mountain ridges snake. Are close by we came to an English couple that just before their retirement, their neat garb the wall in the opposite direction was tame. I advised them to make rechtsomkeerts. She looked at me funny, but really, they did meet their doom.

There was a part of the wall in that way was steep, it was so bad that I was glad that a "Sherpa" (actually a farmer from the neighborhood who was trying to earn some) tipped us that there was a short cut . Admittedly, the route of a high survival levels, but he was not nearly as steep and slippery.

The end of the trip was marked by a long suspension bridge (Indiana Jones style) and a cable car (type strum) along the last mile you could cut down. Judica was brave enough, I stayed behind to take pictures and the footpath down to inspect. Somebody's got to do it ...


39 ° 54 'N, 116 ° 24' E
March 18 2010, 13:22

There are nine million bicycles in Beijing

And we have hired two today. After all the walking of the last days it was wonderful to bike today. The distances are huge and if you go by subway, you see almost nothing. It appears that the main gezondheisrisicoin Beijing crossing a street. We have known this.

After a slow start (we had to arrange tickets to Nanning and a hand doing laundry) we jumped on our metal friends. Naja, Michael jumped almost over because they're really low set. Our goal was a little bike shop and some other important places to visit. At each intersection we waited another struggle. In itself, there are just lights and sometimes even traffic supervisors, but the traffic that must turn right here keep going, so be careful. After a few crossings went smoothly. Beijing is really geared to cyclists, there are bike paths wider than in the Netherlands.

The first destination was "Alien's Street, a shopping mall which notably consists of stuff that came from abroad. We were not addressed as' hello 'to us but known' zdrastvietje. It was hot and there was not a fun atmosphere so on to the next. Actually I thought of nice streets with markets, but Beijing is too hip for this, if you can shop big and it must be at least six floors, although it is an indoor market. The next place was more like silk street where we were before yesterday. We found fun underwear for Michael and our little play could resume at the price. Very nice ... but also tiring.

We turned a corner and saw people sitting in a chair, massages, manicures and pedicures. The prices were incredible, a foot massage of 30 minutes for 3 euros. I have my hand and toe nails done (me so girly!) And Michael was next to me dozed during a wonderful foot massage. Unfortunately, my legs are not set to visit the Chinese girl so kindly asked me not waxed still wanted. eehhm ... no, but thanks. Above the food court we have enjoyed so far the best chicken in sweet and sour sauce. In a word, delicious.

After a bit of movement have defied we arrived at Silk Street, where I've bought a pair of jeans (no stretch) and a jacket and two shirts. Michael did the negotiations, it's funny, when a boy he can be tough but all the little ladies with their big eyes, he finds hard to resist. So it was that we walked away from a position of the final offer 50RMB (about 5 euros) for a shirt but he was comfortable with the other state paid 60 RMB for the same shirt as the girl was so pathetic. I believe that when we come back in the Netherlands that we sometimes could get very difficult not to haggle.

Tomorrow we have early on, we have a trip planned to the Great Wall with a 10 km walk over it for about 4 hours. Our legs have been quiet today slightly more, but I think we both again the day after a massage so careless. Passenger Life is great!


39 ° 55 'N, 116 ° 24' E
17 March 2010, 13:20

Along red houses

15. Snapshot in Beihai Park

How many emperors have lived exactly, that us a bit giddy. But there were certainly many. The resort also appears several times (in part) to be burned, whether or not attributable to an employee who smelled money. Further noticed that the dominant colors were red and gold, with lots of decoration in blue. The Forbidden City, where we were this afternoon.

The City is an enormous complex and I think we really should call the Palace Museum. If Mao had not intervened, the whole town probably been demolished by the Soviets. Anyway, so museum, but strictly speaking, the birthplace of the great Chinese empire. It is said that nearly 9,000 rooms in the complex and I would well believe it. By traversing the city from the north-south axis was (with all the Kodak moments there) at least an hour. And every time loomed impressive red buildings for us. Then another gate, then once a hall, sometimes an imperial bedroom, but sometimes a bedroom for the concubines (which, as we know, a nice word for concubines, mistresses or just fun lady Mekes). Enormous.

After an hour or two in the Forbidden City (formerly of the people of our class was strictly off limits, under pain of death) we started to hit verslenterd and miscalculated. After much staring, oh and ah and say signs in (broken) read English, you become numb. How beautiful such a complex is. The garden at the extreme north of the city was also a relief. Not just buildings, but trees and rocks. Incidentally all, to use good Chinese, but cultivated. The rocks were built of rough and rich curling stones and the trees were all almost Bonsai-like cypresses. Brilliant and especially wonderful.

To imagine that many generations of Chinese emperors almost their entire lives spent in that city is eerily believable: they had enough space for their office, their wives, their children and their many bijslapies. And then there were still enough buildings to have a cup of tea with the newspaper to consume, the wedding night to consume, to at least a dozen different gods give thanks, and a few dozen photo albums to store. No reason for the impressive gates and troubled the dirty outside world is entering.

Mmm, take a sip of Chinese green tea before I start. Free in the room. Very pleasant (though more to taste the hot water over spinach for tea, for me).

After our hike we moved royal to the former imperial gardens, now called the Beihai Park. Our map reveals that Beijing 'bei' factual 'North' and does a quick glance over the rest of the cast plan we discovered a means and a South Park park, with similar cryptic names. Very clear.

In the park we found a large pond with a large island, actually a hill, where a large Tibetan temple complex with a heavy, white pagoda were deposited. A climb with stunning views to reward. Moreover, we were once again clear of all sizes this city really is. For comparison: the whole part of town that we have seen so far in comparison to the city plan the size of an old-fashioned morning paper (unfolded, that is) the size of a small Chinese palm. There is so much more!

Tomorrow we take a piece of me on the bike. You can rent easily and that the many cycle paths make it a tempting means of transport. We would like to book train tickets to Hanoi. See whether we will succeed. We may need to interrupt the journey in Nanning and then take half board. Just to see it. And oh, we're going Friday (expected temperature, 19 degrees plus!) 10 km walk on the Great Wall. Let's see how 4 hours climbing with a guide and we like a charm!


39 ° 55 'N, 116 ° 24' E
16 March 2010, 13:43

Hotel rooms in Beijing

mirrors above the bed

At the time this is being typed Michael and I are exhausted on the bed in our hotel room. The post of Michiel told about what we've done today and a little fatigue is understandable. China is a totally different culture and we need therefore to get used to.

After yesterday we were not picked up from the station, but have found their own way to our hotel we arrived tired. The reservation was quite good and we got the room key. Upon entering my mouth fell open. It was said that the room had no windows (annoying, but for 12 euros a night and I complain not central). The room (incl. bathroom) is about 3x5 feet. On one side of the room has a pitched roof covered the whole length and width mirrors were made. Below this is a big red round bed. The whole scenario is reminiscent of a bad porn movie. HYET whole 'romantic' lighted by two ultra-bright bulbs without a hood over it.

The bathroom has a sink, toilet and shower. Across the width of the bathroom is again a huge mirror. De douche is echter helemaal niet afgescheiden en de badkamer is doorweekt als wij hebben gedouched. Klaag ik? Dat is niet mijn bedoeling, Michiel past door het ontbreken van de rand in het bed en we hebben wel lekker onze eigen wc en douche (en niet eens buiten). Ik verbaas me gewoon over de inrichting en vind het nogal vermakelijk. Chinezen kijken blijkbaar graag naar zichzelf in bed en in de badkamer. Weer eens wat anders. Ik vraag met stiekem wel af wie er voor deze inrichting kan hebben gekozen,

We waren gisteren kort bij een ander hostel (er stonden Aussies buiten die ons vertelden dat we er een kaart konden kopen) en hebben daar terloops naar de prijzen gevraagd. Het ligt 1 straat hiervandaan dus de lokatie kan het niet geweest zijn maar de prijs was 18 euro voor een tweepersoons private met gedeelde badkamer. Ik reken me rijk op ons rode bed :)


39 ° 54 'N, 116 ° 24' E
16 March 2010, 13:37

Groot plein, grote markt

3. Prachtig parkje

Meteen geef ik het maar toe: we waren vanochtend niet al te vroeg op. Onze kamer in het Forbidden City hotel (inderdaad vlakbij de verboden stad, of 'Palace Museum', zoals ze het hier politiek correct noemen) heeft geen ramen en het is dan ook nogal moeilijk een gevoel voor tijd te krijgen. Het was dan ook een totale verrassing te merken dat het weerk vandaag zowaar heel aangenaam was. Een graad of 12 gaf onze thermometer aan. Bepaald aangenaam.

Enfin, om een uurtje of 11 stonden we dus op straat, gewapend met weinig meer dan een vaag plan en wat Yuans. Het idee was om naar het plein van de hemelse vrede te gaan en daarvandaan een door de Lonely Planet voorgestelde wandeling te maken. Het plein ligt 10 minuten lopen van het hotel vandaan en het was door z'n grootte sowieso niet al te moeilijk te spotten. Er daadwerkelijk op komen bleek lastiger: toegang is alleen mogelijk via een van de diverse tunnels onder de hoofdstraten door en in elk van de tunnels stonden militairen klaar om bezoekers van de vlakte te fouilleren en alle tassen te X-rayen. Efficiënt als de zaken hier verlopen, duurde het wachten in de imposante rij bezoekers niet meer dan 10 minuten.

Het plein laat zich het best omschrijven als: 'uitermate groot en uitgestrekt'. Het rode plein is er een klein trapveldje bij. Erg gezellig is het in het hemelse domein overigens niet: vooral veel tegels en militairen. Een enthousiaste Chinees vroeg ons of hij met ons op de foto mocht, met als achtergrond de poort naar de verboden stad. Geen probleem: een beetje glitter en glamour mag ik wel…

Midden op het plein vonden we een groot monument voor de volkshelden en een enorm, vierkant gebouw dat als monument voor Mao dient. Hij zal daarbinnen ook wel ergens opgebaard liggen, maar wegens 'het onderhouden van de uitrusting' is het gebouw het grootste gedeelte van deze maand dicht. Na een half uurtje hadden we het plein wel gezien en zijn we op voorspraak van de LP gaan wandelen. Dat hadden we snel gezien. Weinig bijzonders te zien dan grote gebouwen.

Leuker werd het toen we (Judica herinnerde zich er iets over gelezen te hebben) een eetorgiestraatje vonden, een zijstraat van de Chinese Kalverstraat plus plus (megalomaan, met Hermès, Cartier en nog tien grote namen). De hele straat – of liever, steeg – stond vol met eetkraampjes. Alles werd gebakken en verkocht, variërend van vleesspiezen tot schorpioenen, zeesterren, inktvisjes en slangen. Niet echt mijn smaak, maar Judica wist toch nog een maïskolf naar binnen te werken.

Wederom op advies van de LP zijn we daarna – ons leven in de metro riskerend; wat een drukte – naar de Silk Street gegaan. We hadden geen idee wat het precies zou zijn, maar volgens onze gids was het een grote kledingmarkt. We vielen bijkans steil achterover van wat we troffen: een vijf verdiepingen hoog gebouw, direct vanuit de metro toegankelijk, waarop letterlijk honderden kraampjes (afmetingen 2 x 2 meter) alles van schoenen, kleding tot parels aan de man brachten. En het verkoopproces was bepaald niet passief. Verkoopsters, allen rond de 20 en goedgebekt, klampten ons aan, probeerden ons te verleiden ('Louis Vuitton bag, miss?', 'Gucci wallet, mister?'), en waren bepaald niet snel met een kort 'nee' tevreden te stellen.

Uiteraard vonden we de moed niet weerstand aan alle verleiding te bieden, en dus hebben ook wij ons op het jachtspel gestort. Eerst een portemonnaie: mijn reisportefeuille had het al snel na vertrek begeven (het was dan ook al een oud beestje) en ik zocht vervanging. Al snel had ik een mooie gevonden. Maar toen: onderhandelen over de prijs. Het eerste bod van de verkoopster was bepaald belachelijk. Ze wilde tientallen euro's hebben, veel meer dan we er in Nederland voor over zouden hebben een leren portemonnaie met een bekend logo te kopen. Mijn onderhandelingsvaardigheden hadden enige bijscholing nodig en met hulp van Judica, die in Turkije al wat had geoefend, bemachtigde ik het ding uiteindelijk voor 6 euro. Nog niet erg goedkoop, maar zeker acceptabel.

Toen een paar T-Shirts geprobeerd. Allemaal grote merken, vrijwel zeker nep. Mevrouw wilde graag 900 Yuan (ca. 90 euro) zien voor twee Quicksilver shirts. Onze grens hadden we op 70 Yuan gezet. Een fascinerend spel volgde: ons openingsbod van 40 Yuan werd met ongeloof aangezien (op het display van de rekenmachine die als boodschapper diende). 'Are those dollars?' We lachten om haar opmerking en deden er 5 Yuan bij. Schoorvoetend gaf ze prijs en verlaagde haar bod naar iets minder dan 700 Yuan. 'This is my final price.' Natuurlijk mevrouw, dachten we. Toen we op een patstelling (70 tegen ca. 250) waren aangekomen, besloten we de oude weglooptruc uit de kast te halen. Die werkte. Ze riep ons een aantal lagere biedingen toe, totdat we uiteindelijk het gewenste bedrag vaag op de achtergrond hoorden galmen. Meteen liepen we terug en voltooiden we de transactie. Gek genoeg was ze heel vriendelijk en gedroeg ze zich in het geheel niet alsof we haar een poot hadden uitgedraaid. Immers, van 900 terug naar 70 Yuan lijkt bepaald een slechte zaak voor haar te zijn. Waarschijnlijk hadden we de shirts nog wel voor wat minder kunnen krijgen, maar wij waren tevreden.

Op een vergelijkbare manier kochten we voor Judica en mij allebei nog een Diesel broek (hier en daar op de etiketten ook met Diese aangeduid; andere labels vertoonden ook ernstige spellingsproblemen) en een Billabong shirt. Voor niet teveel hadden we onze garderobe toch aardig weten uit te breiden.

Oh, bijna vergeten: vanmiddag hebben we (uiteraard met stokjes) gegeten in een ondergrondse 'food street'. Een heel net en georganiseerd geheel van kraampjes en zitplaatsen. Bij een centrale balie konden we een pasje opladen (ze zijn hier dol op pasjes) en bij alle kraampjes inzetten voor betalingen. We besloten onszelf een viervaksbord vol heerlijkheden cadeau te doen en kwamen er, gezeten aan een van de vele bankjes, achter dat we daar niet meer dan 26 Yuan (minder dan 3 euro) voor hadden hoeven betalen. Onwaarschijnlijk. Overigens gaat het eten met stokjes ons steeds beter af. Zelfs de rijst gleed nog amper tussen onze stokjes door.